After meeting countless people on my travels who have said this golden gem it is an absolute must do, it has long been on my list. Considered the holy capital for the Sikh religion and home to the Golden Temple – often compared to the grand beauty of the Taj Mahal – it is considered the crowning glory to this holy hot spot of the North. There is more to the city than this twinkling gem though and with just 2 days in Amritsar to explore them all, this guide will help you make the most of all there is on offer.
2 days in Amritsar
I had highs hopes for Amritsar but I will admit my initial thought when first stepping off the train and walking through the pigs scrambling around in the front courtyard was ‘Oh fuck this is just like Delhi’. This soon turned into ‘Oh fuck this is worse than Delhi’ when I arrived at my accommodation on a dusty side street and stood buzzing furiously at what looked just a garage front – turns out it was a garage front with a hotel on top.
But I should know by now not to judge on first appearances and I soon discovered Amritsar really is nothing like the hot mess that Delhi prides itself on, in fact it’s more like a spiritual theme park. With a central plaza surrounded by shops all with identical fronts and signage – filled with overpriced tutt you don’t need – I was immediately transported straight back to my childhood and Pleasurewood Hills – Norfolk’s premium theme park for those that aren’t in the know – and was expected a six foot fluffy bear in a red top coat to bound through at any moment.
Amritsar certainly has its own charm and those looking to dive into a pool of spiritual nectar and get a lesson about some of the atrocities of the British Empire to boot have come to the right place, as although the Golden Temple is an absolute must do – both day and night – there’s also plenty more to take in. Below is my guide and experience of 2 days in Amritsar and all this exciting city has to offer.
The Amritsar Guide
In 1589 and on Guru Arjan Dev Ji request, Sufi Saint named Mian Mir laid the first foundation of the Harmandar – The Golden Temple. Attacks, rebuilds and even a brief possession in 1736 by the Muslim Governor of Lahore have decorated the temple with a colourful past but nothing seems to have marred the temples beauty in any way. I would be prepared for a ‘wow’ moment as you reach the top of the stairs and first catch a glimpse of the Temple nestled within the Amritsar – from where the city got its name – or pool of nectar below. It certainly steals the show and it can be tricky to have a moment to yourself amongst the many, many others all hoping for the ultimate selfie.
Believed to have healing qualities, devotees are permitted to dip from certain points and you’ll spot large Koi flipping around in the shallows as you wander by the edge.
In the surrounding courtyard there are many other holy buildings, take some time to walk the full perimeter and explore, enjoy the minstrels playing in the courtyard or sit by the pool and drink it all in.
The Golden Temple langar
Free langars, meaning a free communal kitchen are an integral part of the Sikh faith and found in all Sikh places of worship, known as Gurdwaras. They are an essential place of service and where those of the Sikh religion can offer seva to any person, of any colour or religion. While all Gurdwaras will offer a langar, the Golden Temple stands out through the sheer volume of meals that are served each day and night, often reaching 50,000.
Even if not eating yourself, take a moment to look inside and see the beauty of the space and the incredible efficiency that this holy operation is run with. Maybe jump in and help yourself too, then they are always looking for extra hands.
‘Putting the book to bed’ ceremony
Home to the Guru Granth Sahib (the central Sikh religious scripture) and considered a living Guru, it lives within the Golden Temple by day and is ‘put to bed’ around 9.30 each evening and ‘awoken’ every day around 5am ceremonially. Those of any religion are welcome to watch and it is a pretty magnificent thing to see. I was part of the putting to bed ceremony and arrived just after 9 to join the queue.
Shortly after the carriage arrived it was led down the causeway towards the Golden Temple to collect the book. After queuing for about 30 minutes I made it into the temple just as the ceremony took place, which involved reading from Holy Scriptures and reciting prayers. There were lots of us crammed in but it was really wonderful to be part of it, I would definitely recommend choosing one of the ceremonies to go to whilst you are there.
Things to know when visiting the Golden Temple
When to visit the Golden Temple
I was informed the temple receives 100,000 visitors throughout the week and 200,000 just on the weekend, so I would advise you to consider this when planning your time here. If you would like to go inside the temple then depending on your time of day the queue to enter may even stretch to the end of the walkway and even out into the surrounding courtyard, especially if you visit from around midday to 4ish.
If you are going for the morning ceremony I was advised to arrive for 4.30am and for the evening ceremony I would get there by 9. It’s worth taking that extra bit of time so you know you will definitely get in to see it. I visited the site both during the day and again at night and would absolutely recommend doing this, even if you don’t wish to queue for the ceremony it is so magical to see it come to life and shine in both lights.
Getting a Golden Temple Guide
If you are looking for a guide then there are free English speaking ones available who receive a wage from the Temple, so are free of charge and without hassle. I discovered this by accident and had a brief introduction and tour which I found really informative. You can find the office on the far right of the immediate square in front of the temple, just ask anyone stood around the area for tourist information and they will point you in the right direction.
What to wear to the Golden Temple
Before entering shoes must come off and be stored for free in the locker room and checks are done on entry to make sure no shoes have been sneakily stored in your bags. Luckily I came prepared as all heads must be covered – males and female – so bring a scarf or suffer the misery of an orange bandana flapping about on your head all day long…it really is no one’s colour.
Located in the square just in front of the entrance to the Golden Temple you’ll find stairs leading down towards the museum which is free to enter. It is made up of four video exhibitions and a final curated section and really continued the theme park vibe. It reminded me of those space exhibitions you would go into as a child and be taken on rides through the solar system, except this was a journey through the story of Sikhism and of the creation of the Golden Temple, slightly bloodier but equally as interesting. Headsets are available free of charge which will narrate the story in your chosen language and lasts roughly 30 minutes. It is definitely worth doing but my advice would be to visit here before entering the temple grounds, so you have a little more knowledge for you exploring.
Created in 1951 by the India Government, the public garden and memorial was designed to commemorate the massacre of innocent civilians that had gathered in peaceful protest to celebrate the Punjab New Year in 1919. Ordered by Brigadier General Dyer – a name you’ll soon get used to seeing as you explore the history of Amritsar – this ambush resulted in at least 379 fatalities and an estimated 1100 wounded.
Built around a central memorial statue the gardens are small but display the history of this awful event with the bullet holes in the walls and pruned bushes in the shape of British firing soldiers.
As the only white and British person in the garden I was slightly overwhelmed by the historical and cultural guilt I felt and of this attack, however no one else was the slightest bit bothered by my presence. But in a vain attempt to off-set the guilt I agreed to every selfie asked, man, woman and child with an extra big smile thrown in.
The gardens are not far from the temple at all, look for the white statue in the main square and you’ll find the entrance.
Also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple this Hindu Temple is located near to the Railway station and Gobiudgargh Fort. Built in worship of the Goddess Durga, along with Laksmi and Vishnu the temple bears a resemblance to the Golden Temple from the outside.
Once inside though you’ll find beautiful statues of Durga, Laksmi and Vishnu on display that you can make your offerings to in exchange for some good fortune and blessings, which I can never get enough of. Outside you can follow the path around the pool and take in the beauty from the many different sides of the temple.
Don’t make the same mistake I did however and follow google maps direction which took me straight into an action packed crematorium. It took me a moment to realise what was going on – in my defence you often have to take a few moments in every Indian experience to really understand what’s happening – anyway, massive awks. So don’t listen to googlemap, instead at the crossing/roundabout thingy walk straight up towards the marked ATM (although there isn’t actually one) and you’ll see the entrance on the right hand side of the road.
Despite my slight detour I really enjoyed visiting the temple and loved that I could experience a beautiful celebration of both Sikhism and Hinduism within the same city.
Shopping in Amritsar
If you are looking for beautiful fabrics, scarfs and suits then you’ve come to the right place. You’ll find a tonne of shopping options surrounding the main plaza and surrounding streets, each with their own screeching shopkeeper awaiting your arrival and ready to pounce. However if you are looking for a little more choice and at a much cheaper price then get your walking shoes on and start exploring.
I walked from the main plaza to the Shri Durgiana Temple – about 30 minutes – so I could take in a little more of the city in its vibrancy and explore the markets en route. I would for sure recommend this, the selection of fabrics was incredible and the prices anywhere from half to a third less than the shops found directly on the square. Although a little beepy and hectic at times, Amritsar has a serene air to it and I had a brilliant time walking and exploring the city in action.
Other recommendations – Wagah Border Crossing Ceremony
I was gutted I couldn’t experience what’s often touted as the most bizarre tourist attractions India has to offer. The daily Wagah Border Crossing Ceremony takes place around 5pm at the India and Pakistani border every day and is to mark the lowering of the flags, however it apparently has become more of a spectacle of dance, music and some serious hurling of abuse from either sides of the border. If you wish to visit you can get a bus or taxi and you’ll find touts all around the plaza that can direct you towards their service.
Accommodation in Amritsar
I stayed at Osahan Paradise and while it was in a good spot it was really bloody noisy and had a hot water tank the size of a thimble. I would recommend looking to find somewhere – maybe that’s noted in the reviews as being quiet – within these surrounding streets as this area is perfect as a central base for exploring.
Getting to Amritsar
Located about 450 KM north of Delhi and about the same from Rishikesh there are many options for reaching the city, there is even an airport that offers direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai. Coming from Rishikesh – where I was based for my yoga teacher training – I had the option of either a 15 hour overnight bus trip or a 10 hour overnight sleeper train from Haridwar, the next city along the Ganges from Rishikesh, I opted for the sleeper train. Although noisy at times, after my 3 day Himalayan trek and with the help of some deeply planted ear plugs I slept pretty well until our on time 7.30am arrival. Even though I booked a week in advance there were just two beds left in the three tier carriage at around 800 IDR, so worth thinking of this especially if travelling in a group.
Have you visited Amritsar? What were your thoughts? Let me know in the comments below!
