Rishikesh, a town of two half’s, two bridges and a shed load of yoga Ashrams, sits vibrantly on the banks of the powerful Ganges, or Mama Ganga she’s so lovingly known as. The bridges (Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula) connect the different sides of Rishikesh, ferrying people, motorcycles, cows and monkeys, all bouncing their way across the swinging (just slightly) bridges on their journeys.
As you begin to explore Rishikesh you’ll see how each area (Ram Jhula, Lakshman Jhula and Tapovan) has its own character, with my favourite being the Lakshman Jhula side. I just loved the feel there and after I finished the International Yoga Festival, I moved across to enjoy my final few days in the area. Without the time pressures of the next stop looming (I know, a traveller’s life is hard, right?) I would have stayed for even longer and chilled out in its lovely vibe, it really does capture you. I have written this Rishikesh guide so you can enjoy some of the best bits, whichever side of the bridge you are on.
Below is my guide, my best bits of Rishikesh, all of which you’ll find dotted along the vibrant streets, where cows lay lazily, as people stumble around them and smiling Sadhu’s watch from the sides.
Aarti at Parmarth Niektan Ashram
Each evening under the watchful eye of the grand Shiva statue and in the powerful embrace of the Mama Ganga, Pujya Swami Chidanand Saraswatiji and Sadhvi Bhagawati Saraswatiji lead devotees and tourist alike through a magical evening of offering and celebration.
The event attracts hundreds of visitors who each cram on the steps, hanging over walls and jostling for space as they find their vantage point. The event begins at sunset but if you wish to bag yourself a spot with a view, then make sure you arrive early as the crowds soon start to build.
Spend time with the Mama Ganga
Quite the celebrity in these parts the Mama Ganga sweeps majestically through Rishikesh, bringing an energy that is almost palpable as you sit alongside her at the Ghats. I read about Sadhvi Bhagawati Saraswatiji’s own spiritual experience she had here, just from dunking her feet in and gave it a go myself…well, when in Rishikesh…
Although very refreshing in the days heat, sadly no moment of awakening was had. However, it is an incredible experience just to be on her banks, feet in the river, watching the cows clumsily make their way up the steps as locals wash their clothes and cleanse their spirit as they bathe.
For those wanting to bathe, there are certain Ghats that you can do this at and by walking along the beautifully paved walkway from the Ram Juhula to Lakshman Jhula you can also find a beach spot to relax on. There are some more secluded spots much further down after the Lakshman Jhula bridge, but just remember what is and isn’t suitable here. Ladies, if you do decide to wear a swimming costume or pair of shorts you will no doubt attract groups of men who will, quite unashamedly, sit and gawp.
Visit the Beatles Ashram
About a 15 minute walk from Parmarth Niketan Ashram, you’ll find Chaurasi Kutia, otherwise known as the Beatles Ashram. This was where the famous four visited in 1968, learning transcendental meditation and writing some corkers that were later to feature on their rather famous albums. Previously the Ashram fell into a bit of a state, but the crumbling buildings and overgrown vines attracted graffiti artists whose art work actually brought it back to life.
Now open to the public and costing around £2 you can visit the still slightly creepy shells of buildings and admire the works of art across the walls. I went as a yoga festival outing, where we crammed into the main meditation hall, sang Imagine and shared some incredible moments of sing song joy, it was a a moment I’ll never forget.
Enjoy lazy days and great food
If relaxing and chilling out for a few days is what you are after then there are some great spots to do this in Rishi, especially in the Lakshman Jhula side. My personal favourites were The Royal, found about half way down next to Buddha Cafe (also great so I hear) it offered shaky WIFI, smoothies, juices and delicious salads, all with a delightful view across the Ganges.
A few times we even had the classic backpacker with a guitar strumming away, but even I lost the usual urge to slice the strings and throw it over the balcony, such was the serenity of the place.
Another great one was the Ganga Beach Cafe (delicious mango and strawberry juices) just next to the Lakshman Jhula bridge. Although a little hot (they could do with some sun brolley’s) they were close enough to the river to see the rafters falling in and watch the fight for space as the various forms made their way across the bridge.
For dinner, one of the best meals I had was at the 60’s Cafe Delmar / Beatles Cafe, up in the Tapovan area. A relatively large restaurant, but for some reason with limited seating the restaurant does fill up pretty quickly. Aside from the minimal tables, it could also be because the menu and food was really impressive, with great vegan options. I scoffed down a gorgeous green salad and vegan pizza that I could have eaten all over again.
For those craving a sweet treat then make sure you don’t miss the Pumpernickel German bakery in Lakshman Jhula. They have a selection of gluten and dairy free cakes, with their most popular deservedly being the Reese’s pieces chocolate balls. At just 50 English pence each, you’d be silly to not buy them all.
Take a yoga class
Well, as the birthplace of yoga you kinda expect to find some quality yoga on the streets of Rishikesh, which you certainly can. You can’t help to spot signs hanging on walls and posts for yoga schools and visiting teachers offering drop-in classes, courses and one-ones along with shops and cafes with yoga spaces, such as the The Royal.
There are also many yoga ashrams where you can stay or take drop in classes, often Hatha classes taught by traditional Indian yoga teachers which are wonderful to experience and see the comparison between the Western teachers we might be used to.
Classes generally were offered early morning and late afternoon, along with meditations, cacao ceremonies, chakra balancing….Rishikesh really did offer the Zen works. My favourite place to do yoga through was at the Sattva centre in town (not to be confused with their villa just outside of Rishikesh) where they offered two morning classes and an evening. Classes were on donation and were just incredible, Sattva yoga is one powerful yoga style and I could not recommend highly enough taking a class if you are in Rishikesh.
Shop!
The town is lined with shops selling all the things you need and those you probably don’t, but you know will look delightful in your lounge at home. There are also some amazing jewellery shops, that all offer something unique. I could go into the same place three times and still spot something new.
Although not keen to barter, compared to the UK you’ll find some great pieces and bargains. I couldn’t help myself and purchased enough rings to cover a third hand, along with thick silver earnings and chains. Those wanting more individual designs in silver or gold then you’ll see jewellery makers at work in the shop fronts, where you can get your own pieces made in just a day or two.
For those wondering, you can also purchase the essentials services, such as getting a hair cut, weighing yourself at the side of the street or get a good old ear clean.
Adventure and activities around Rishikesh
If it is more adventure sports you are after then Rishikesh does offer quite a selection, from five day treks to rafting down the Ganges. I would have liked to do a morning walk to the Neer Garh waterfall and Kunjapuri Temple, but I didn’t have the opportunity in my time frame. To book, there are many adventure sports and travel shops for you to take your pick, but do shop around as the prices can vary.
If you are looking for your next adventure after Rishikesh, then check out my Haridwar and Mcleod Ganj posts.
I hope you enjoyed my guide to Rishikesh, but I’m sure there’s more to add! Have you been to Rishikesh? What did you love? Let me know in the comments below!
