Lisbon offers a subtropical Mediterranean climate, in other words, those long summers and short winters us pasty British folk are often in desperate need of. The city had been on my list for a while now, but summer prices had kept my twitching booking finger at bay. However one of the joys of not having kids is that once the school holidays end us childless wanderers can enjoy some late summer sun, without it breaking the bank or being stuck next to screaming children on the plane. A winning combination.
My 2 days in Lisbon followed a retreat where I had been yogaing, walking and writing my way through five sunny days, in a small town called Barroca out in the Portuguese countryside. A wonderfully relaxing time was had but by the time I reached Lisbon I was ready for the buzz of the capital and some proper touristing.
With such limited time I was never going to see all that Lisbon has to offer but my hotel, the Happy Chiado, (which I would recommend with some reluctance) was located pretty centrally, just off the Chiado square between the Bairro Alto and Baixa Pombalina neighbourhoods. Very handily is was also just a short walk from Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district and well regarded host of some of the cities best Fado experiences, perfect for a tourist hit.
I arrived in the early evening and headed straight out onto the cobbled Lisbon streets just as it began to be lit up by the evening lights. Nipping through the Chiado square and dodging the number 28 trams’ as they noisily rattled past I made my way east across the city. My stomach was rumbling after such a long day and I had to stay strong as I walked through the Praça do Comércio. It was tempting just to find a spot at one of the restaurants dotted along the grand arcade and watch the tourists take in the impressive surroundings.
But with the call of Fado whispering its way to me across the warm Lisbon night I decided to keep on going, I had to get me to Alfama….
And Alfama did not disappoint, the high walls and maze like streets take you to steps leading to who knows where. There’s a kind of dark and ancient feel to it, but the myriad of dining spots that line the labyrinth like streets offer inviting windows to stop and enjoy the colourful sights. I poked my nose in almost every little rabbit warren restaurant and loitered suspiciously around the open air dining spots dotted along the winding and cobbled streets.
It was a Monday night but still incredible busy, I was lucky to find a spot at the Medrosa d’Alfama on Largo de São Rafael without a wait. One of the benefits of being a single traveller are that you can be squeezed on the end of almost any table. I got a seat so close to the musicians I was practically sat on their laps which was great for me but probably slightly awkward for them. But hey, who cares I was on my holiday. I guzzled my carafe of wine for one and stared uncomfortably at the Fado stars before me.
Afterwards I made my way back through the streets stopping off for a sorbet nightcap at Gelataria Gelateiro d’Alfama, muttering “Obrigado” at anyone I passed, it was my newly and only learnt word in Portuguese and after a few drinks I was determined to show off my Portuguese skills.
While the carafe of wine and heavily armed police patrolling the streets was likely to have reduced any worries of walking alone in a strange city, I have to say I really did feel at ease and had no concerns being a single female traveller in Lisbon. It felt like a very safe city. You’ve always got to be eyes alert for pick-pockets, but unfortunately that comes with every tourist territory.
The next morning I was up early with the first tram as it clattered past my window and watched the rest of Lisbon waking up from my balcony. The temperature started making its way towards a glorious 24 degree heat as I started the walk towards the Castelo de Sao Jorge, way up on the hilltop overlooking the city. This Moorish masterpiece offers breath-taking views of the city and the Tagus river, which after all that leg work I had well deserved.
Although most of the castle had been destroyed many years ago with an earthquake in the late 1700’s finishing it off, a refurb in the 1920’s brought it back to life and the castle is still a majestic place to walk around and worth the trip.
There is a small museum on site but it isn’t very well curated so make sure you grab a guide book to refer to as you wander amongst the castle walls. Oh, and to beat the crowds, you’ll want to be there first thing. There were some pretty large queues forming around 10am as I was making my way out.
I wandered back down towards the Cathedral, well actually more of a slip and slide. The cobbles in the heat become a bit dicey and I ended up on my arse a couple of times as I tried to navigate them in my pair of grip-less plimsolls. I didn’t have to suffer a grazed knee at every turn though, the city is well equipped with many transport options. Tour buses, tiny smart cars and tuk tuks nip around each other as they whizz about the city and of course the number 28 tram will offer you a clattering and tightly packed ride around the streets and city sights.
The thing I love about walking, and the reason I often choose it as my mode of transport is that you get to be part of the streets coming alive with the day, you can nip up steps or down a passageway you might otherwise have missed if you were cooped up on a bus. As Lisbon’s streets are a showroom for is famous for its tiles, or azulejos, walking the city meant I got to experience them lighting up an otherwise average street going about it’s day.
Next stop was the Sé Cathedral, which despite the crowds offered me a moment of rest and contemplation amongst its rather grand beauty. God I love a good church, they sure know how to decorate.
After the Sé I headed down to Cais do Sodré station, where I jumped on the number 15 tram to Belem, a western district about fifteen minutes ride from the centre. Here you’ll find a bucket list of sights to keep you busy for a whole weekend, from the Palácio Nacional da Ajuda (National Palace of Ajuda) perched high on the hill to the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) that overlooks the River Tagus.
With only half a day left to spare I unfortunately did not have the luxury of swanning my way around all of Belem’s delights, but that’s not to say I didn’t get to experience some of the gems. My first stop was the Jeronimos Monastery. This beautifully adorned masterpiece lays in all its glory along the but the Praça do Império. It is a masterpiece from the outside, which was unfortunately all I was able to see of it. It was the middle of the afternoon and as the day had grown, so had the queues. However the chapel door was queue-less and offered a magical experience, think the Sé, but double it.
I wandered through the Jardim De Belem and towards the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) that leans out over the River Tagus and was built to celebrate those that had pivotal roles in Portuguese history. The river offers views that stretch for miles and on a sunny day (as it was) the view of the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge and Christ Rei statue in the distance was breath-taking. Next time I visit I will be hiring a car and taking the trip across to get a look close up but on this occasion I had the fun of walking along the water’s edge, dodging the cycling tourists making their way up the promenade (also on my list for next year) past the Museu da Electricidade (Electricity Museum), which failed to lure me in before making my way back towards the City on foot.
However the heat was too much and my thirst too great, so I gave up halfway and jumped on the 15 tram back into town. I finished the afternoon with a glass of wine in the afternoon sun and a final gawp at the beautiful city around me Lisbon, I shall be back and next time with more than just 2 days and ‘Obrigado’ in my vocabulary.
My 2 days in Lisbon…
I stayed at the Happy Chiado on Rua do Loreto. A great location, but more of an apartment than a hotel and there were no pillows, only fur covered cushions and a sloping bed to sleep on. It was a bit weird.
I ate at: Alfama: Medrosa d’Alfama on Largo de São Rafael for dinner and Gelataria Gelateiro d’Alfama R. das, Escolas Gerais 124 for sorbet desserts.
