Dharamshala
Dharamshala is located in the state of Himachal Pradesh, roughly a 10 hour night bus journey from Haridwar and about 10 hours from Delhi on a similar route. The region is made up of several areas, some larger such as Dharamshala town itself, McleodGanj, Bhagsu and some smaller towns such a Dharmkot.
On recommendation I booked my first few nights in Bhagsu but on arrival I soon released that this was not the town for me. Firstly, my hotel room was above a construction site and the consistent drilling noise was really not conducive to any kind of relaxing. If you are looking for a very basic spot to hang out for a very short amount of time, then it may be your place but I really found the town to be lacking in pretty much everything that I was looking for from this experience.
I wanted to be spending my days writing in cool, health food focused internet cafés, mooching round trinket shops and taking in lots of yoga, but Bhagsu was pretty sparse in my requirements. So I checked out, slung my backpack on and headed down to neighbouring McleodGanj.
McleodGanj
McleodGanj sits in the shadows of the Himalayas and looking up you can see the green hills with the snowy peaks just edging their way into the background. More than often not you can spot kites circling above the roof tops of the cafes that sit amongst the streets, it really is quite a breath-taking view to accompany your caffeine fix.
It is of course most famous as the home of the Dalia Lama, the place His Holiness has sought refuge whilst in exile from Tibet. Since then many Tibetans have joined him and the influence is clear as Tibetan faces, food, clothes and infectious smiles line the streets. Even the temperament and energy is different, maybe it’s all the Buddhist meditation going on but there is a serene feel to the air, less beeping, less shouting and less urgency.
Coming from Uttar Pradesh, I could really feel the difference and one of the first things I noticed was the booze shop, sat quite proudly in the town centre and was the first of a few throughout town. It might not seem like too much of a big deal but after spending so long in India, it felt like a real sight to behold!
What to do in McleodGanj
Shopping in McleodGanj
Hugged by trinket shops that display incredible crystals of every shape and size, the slim line streets are a mix of tourists, locals and Buddhist monks all mingling and going about their day. You’ll find everything from crystals pendants to homemade wares, beautiful mandala beads and singing bowls in the cute little shops and the street-side markets.
I also found they were much more up for a bit of bartering here, which was a great relief after having my attempts met with such stoney faces in Rishikesh and so spent many an afternoon haggling my way up and down the town.
The Tibet Museum
Located at the bottom of town in the residency of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, the Tibet Museum is open 9am to 5pm every day except Monday and Saturday. In line with wishing to share the history of Tibet, the museum is free to enter although you can and really should, leave a donation.
The museum was a huge eye-opener for me, incredibly well curated with exhibitions that told a story I’m ashamed to say I knew very little about. I, along with pretty much everyone else in there were deeply moved by the incredibly saddening historic and continued persecution of the Tibetan people.
If you’re in McleodGanj, or staying in any of the neighbouring towns this really must be on your list.
Yoga in McleodGanj
The idea of learning Buddhist meditation from actual Buddhist monks, taking yoga in the mountains and breathing in the clean Himalayan air during pranayama was getting me high already, but sadly I struggled much more than I hoped. I found that yoga was only really offered at Ashrams, with most being out and up into the mountains and those I did find weren’t responsive to my phone calls and emails, or replied to say nothing was on offer until later in the year. I did find one morning class running locally, but as it was just me who turned up the teacher decided not to run it. You can imagine my frustration…some inner yoga and deep breathing was needed that morning for sure! If you are looking to go for this reason then you will do best to research beforehand and check on confirmed schedules.
Trekking in McleodGanj
My failed attempts in Rishikesh to find a group trek had left me pining for a good stretch of the legs and I was really keen to find a way to get out whilst I was up in such a beautiful spot. I hit the town and pretty much every tour company I could find, but there were no groups going out for any decent treks or camping trips…ahhh he perils of being a single traveller! So instead I waited for a friend to arrive and we headed up towards the Bhagsu waterfall and Shiva cave.
From Bhagsu it is around a 30 minute hike uphill on a well laid out route to a cute – although not hugely impressive – waterfall.
However, it was lovely after the walk though and I plunged my feet in the bloody freezing waters and watched the selfie game unfold as the young Indian lads posed, pouted and got in the way of all my photos. Afterwards we headed upwards to the Shiva Cave, which unfortunately we struggled to find. All was not lost as instead we stumbled across the Shiva Cafe, where we sat with a juice and admired the beautiful view.
On the way down the goats came out to play and despite the occasional hairy moment and grumpy scowl, they were all pretty adorable trekking buddies.
Where to eat McleodGanj
There’s a great number of places to eat dotted around the town of Mcleod. Juices, great breakfast, homemade breads and of course wonderful curries are abundant along with beautiful fluffy Momos, served by little take-away stands along the street. Below are some of my favourites from my time there, the town is pretty dinky so you’re bound to spot each one on your wanders.
Nicks Italian Kitchen
Just above where I was staying and with arguably the best rooftop view in town, Nick’s also offers a delicious and varied menu. Their coffees and juices were really well made and their homemade Tibetan bread was a delicious way to start the morning. Give the bruscehtta a try, it was my favourite thing on the menu.
The only downside was their temperamental WIFI, which would often stop working at those crucial points and be met with the typical shrug of the shoulders. They also wouldn’t provide toilet paper in their bathroom, which I just found very odd. I understood that most places wanted you to buy your own for your room, but for a restaurant bathroom I think is a step too far!
The Green Hotel
The lemon and ginger tea was beautiful and the chana masala one of the best I have tasted on my travels. They also have a great selection of cakes to choose from and a nice outside balcony space to relax on whilst the sun is shining. For those wanting an alcoholic drink, you can find that here too.
The Lhamo’s croissant
I only had a juice, but heard about 5 people ask for their gluten free, vegan carrot cake with rave reviews. They also offered a rather beautiful looking banana and chocolate cake along and the salads all looked fresh and generously made. They also have a beautiful rooftop terrace which was in the process of having some cool graffiti work completed while I was there. This was the most reliable WIFI I found and was super speedy, even when restaurants around them were not.
Don’t forget to work our way down Momo Street. Just off the main square you’ll find the street lined with momo makers and sellers offering meat and veggie options. At 50 rupees for 8 pieces you really can’t go wrong. I ordered some for my bus ride to Delhi, that barely made it the walk to the bus station before they were all devoured.
Where to stay in McleodGanj
I really struggled to find anywhere on a website that offered rooms within my price range but once I arrived there were a number of guest houses all with signs in the windows, with a range of prices from 600 to over 1500 rupees. Many places seemed to have quite late check out times of midday and were often encouraging me to come back around that time to see what might have become available. For those masses arriving on the early morning buses (probably most of you) there are coffee shops (Nicks from about 7.30am) that can offer you WIFI and brekky whilst you wait for everyone else to wake up.
I stayed at Kunga House that is part of Nick’s Italian restaurant and a fairly central location and they offered a range of room sizes and prices which seemed to go pretty quickly. It was fine for the night or so, but my sleeping and waking times were at the mercy of the restaurant above and the scraping of chairs as they opened and closed.
Is it worth the visit?
Although it as different to my expectations, I did enjoy my time there. The people are super friendly, the views are incredibly and the vibe is wonderful. McleodGanj feels authentic, open and welcoming.
If you’re planning on doing yoga, meditation or trekking I would definitely say to research this well beforehand so the long bus ride is not a wasted one.
Just a note; Make sure to plan your time as Mondays are a quieter day and you’ll find half the shops shut, along with the Tibet Museum and remember to check the weather before your visit. I went in March and the days were warm, actually sometimes pretty roasting but the nights developed a chill and a scarf and jumper or thin coat was needed.
Have you been to McleodGanj or are you planning a trip? I would love to hear all about it in the comments below!
